Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Wetness Rules The High Knob Massif


Big Cherry Basin of High Knob Massif
Photograph by Wayne Browning - © All Rights Reserved.


October is climatologically the driest month of the year across the great High Knob Landform (HKL), and western front range of the Appalachians.

Not so during 2009, as October merely marked another notch in Mother Nature's wetness gun!

Its actually been more like a hose in the High Knob high country, where wetness ruled the massif for the better portion of the past year.

My friend Gary Hampton, superintendent of the Big Stone Gap Water Plant, and his fine staff, have currently measured more than 80.00" of total precipitation during the past 12-months at majestic Big Cherry Dam of the High Knob Massif.

Here's a Monthly Breakdown.

Big Cherry Dam of the High Knob Massif
Monthly Precipitation Totals
Elevation: 3120 feet

2008
November: 4.36"
December: 8.49"

2009
January: 9.23"
February: 4.36"
March: 5.51"
April: 5.40"
May: 7.07"
June: 5.44"
July: 8.42"
August: 7.08"
September: 9.09"
Oct 1-Nov 1: 6.00"

2009 Total: 67.60" (M)
12-Month Total: 80.45" (M)

There are numerous things interesting 
about this hand-measured precipitation data. 

First, its much more accurate than automated gauge data but is significantly less than what has actually fallen from the heavens, and accumulated at Big Cherry Dam and across its lofty basin (water elevation of Big Cherry Lake being 3120 feet above mean sea level, at full pool, lowest within the main Big Cherry Lake Basin).

Although the Dam area is now monitored 24-hours per day, 7-days per week, and 365-days a year for security purposes, it is not possible for Gary and his staff to hand-measure precipitation every day.

During 2009, and the past 12-months, there have been at least 3.00" of evaporational losses from 
the rain gauge between hand-measurements at 
Big Cherry Dam (this based upon evaporation losses observed under ideal conditions at my National Weather Service station, 
which I use as a "control" site).

So in reality, more than 70.60" of precipitation would have been measured at Big Cherry Dam during 2009, and more than 83.50" during the 
past 12-months, if it had been possible to 
measure every day by hand. 

Thus, to be honest an (M), for missing moisture, must denote the above data set.

Majesty of Mixed-Hardwood Forest
Photograph by Wayne Browning - © All Rights Reserved.

So as farewell is bid to the glorious autumn 
color show of 2009, as well documented by 
the professional quality photography of my good friend Roddy Addington, the above 
notation of missing moisture for the Big Cherry Dam observation site gets it on equal footing with other places that measure every day only if the evaporational losses (of approximately 3.00") 
are taken into consideration and added. 

[For Roddy's great photography reference the following: 

For mid-upper elevation measuring sites in the mountains, however, the ultimate reality is that even by hand measuring precipitation every day there is still going to be a NET loss of recorded values due to wind induced gauge undercatches.

I was blessed to learn about this aspect of wind induced gage losses in rain, and especially in frozen precipitation forms, by personal communication and instruction from Dr. Boris Sevruk. 

Boris is a world expert on this aspect of climatological measuring and worked many years amid the rugged Alps of Switzerland to document and learn how winds play havoc with rain gauges (or gages), their design, and placement.

Although Boris is now retired, he is nothing less than a legend in his field with an outstanding record of teaching, research, and contributions 
to many diverse climatological studies.

The way this world is today if you wish to truly learn something you should seek out the BEST of the BEST and, IF they are willing to teach, you will be blessed!  Boris was willing and I thank him so much.  I was blessed by the humble, sincere, and good hearted nature of Boris Sevruk. 

A truly RARE breed in this modern, ego-centered world, whom I will not soon forget.  Thank you so very much Boris!

Boris and others in the world have developed mathematical formulas that can be applied to gauges based upon observed wind speeds, that clearly show the significance of precipitation 
gauge undercatches.

Although I do not apply the formulas to my reported High Knob Massif sites, I have used them enough to know that what ever is measured and obtained, via adjustments for evaporational losses, will still result in totals that are well below what actually falls.  This being especially true of exposed, convex crestlines and other open sites where winds are either turbulent, rising, strong, or more often than not, all of the above!

Eagle Knob of High Knob Massif
Fiery Maple At Nearly 4200 Feet Elevation
Photograph by Wayne Browning - © All Rights Reserved.

Beautiful autumn colorations, such as above, can be short-lived on the Eagle Knob of High Knob where my weather station sits at 4178 feet above mean sea level.  Although not the highest peak 
in Virginia, the location is one that finds air almost always rising and in turbulent motion.

A placement of rain gauges in many different locations generates varying totals, which Boris noted makes it especially hard to obtain accurate measurements of true precipitation falls.

That the above is true becomes so very obvious when winter settles into the high country!

High Knob Massif Crest Zone
Eagle Knob of High Knob Massif Wind Effects
Steve Blankenbecler Image - © All Rights Reserved.

The above image, courtesy of my friend Steve Blankenbecler, illustrates how northerly winds blowing across the summit of Eagle Knob have swirled snow with vortical suction motions into convergent rows, piles, and deep zones, all the while sweeping the ground bare within adjacent locations.

Although the above setting was impacted by the communication tower and chain-link enclosure, the same type of effects occur around trees and other natural features along the crestlines.

During many past snow events I have recorded for my records that snow depths along the crestlines varied, "from bare ground to feet in drifts."  While that might sound a bit crazy, it is indeed the reality, true, and honest!

What may not appear to be obvious, from the above, is that high country winds impact rain in much the same way.  It's just that one can not see how the rain accumulates, drifts, and blows around like snow!! 

While it is true, that rain is not perturbed as much as snow, or frozen forms, it is perturbed as anyone can prove by placing small containers near to the ground in different locations.  When winds howl, and rains fall, each container will almost certainly collect varied amounts for the different locations.  Yes, much like snow, the rain blows, drifts and accumulates much more in some places than
 others along the surface.

High Knob Massif Crest Zone
Central Appalachian Northern Hardwoods
Photograph by Wayne Browning - © All Rights Reserved.

When looking upon the richly varied forests of the High Knob high country, as illustrated by the vast array of colorful species above, one may not think about such things as drifting rains and snows!

And may not think about how they have played important roles in establishing all the ecological niches that are exploited by more species, from beneath the forest floor to its tippy-top, than anyone today even knows are there!

In fact, the situation is so much more complex, since up in the high country wind speeds nearly always increase with the onset and continuation 
of precipitation.  For valley dwellers, of which the majority are, you may know that wind speeds typically decrease after precipitation begins 
in non-convective settings.

For here, I am mainly talking about the orographic forcing season, from late autumn through spring, when large-scale storm systems develop pressure gradients that generate 
winds to push against the topograpahy.

It is during the orographic forcing season that the truly great ones, like the High Knob Massif, Mount Rogers, Roan, Mitchell, Mount LeConte, Mount Porte Crayon (Dolly Sods), and numerous others
FLEX their mountain MUSCLES.

In places like the Big Cherry Basin it is denoted 
by an up-spike in their measured precipitation amounts during the forcing season relative to 
other locations not impacted by strong orographics, or subjected to negative forcing (i.e., subsidence or sinking with downslope trajectories).

In fact, for measurement purposes, high basins and coves tucked away amid the 
high country are the BEST places to set 
up precipitation measuring sites within upper elevations. 

Southern Appalachian Mixed-Mesophytic Cove Forest
Photograph by Wayne Browning - © All Rights Reserved.

The many basins embedded within the sprawling High Knob Massif offer unique opportunities, as 
do locations like the relatively sheltered cove tucked amid the lofty north slope of majestic Mount LeConte in the Great Smokies (perhaps 
the best measuring site for such a high elevation 
in the Appalachians).

The higher convex crestlines are not the best places for measuring precipitation, since in order to be truly representative it requires changing rain gauge locations with shifting wind directions (e.g., the southeast side of the crest for a NW wind, the northwest side of the crest for a SE wind, the northeast side of the crest for a SW wind, the southwest side of the crest for a NE wind).

The above is not currently possible, but tilting rain gages that tip with changing wind directions and speeds are an experimental possibility for improvement toward what I just described. 

Not a solution, since winds rise upwards, often 
at accelerated speeds across crestlines, such that many precipitation elements are actually carried completely across and fall leeward onto high slopes, into high basins, or simply evaporate away with sinking, or subsidence, along narrow crested ridges.


The Lifting Zone

Nestled against northern slopes of the great 
High Knob Massif, the remnant high country of the High Knob Landform, is the lovely City of Norton.

The wettest town or city in Virginia as verified 
by data scans of all available resources.

Norton is proving that once again during 2009, 
and the past 12-months, with enhancement of precipitation amounts via a general mean of rising air amid the lifting zone created by the sprawling massif surrounding the High Knob peak.

A most interesting situation, given periods of significant sinking, or downsloping, which also subtract precipitation from the city on south to southeast flow trajectories (at least under typical conditions as there are some notable exceptions ).

My friends, Superintendent Tommy Roberts and his great staff, diligently measure precipitation by hand every day, just like clock work, at Norton WP.

Here is a Monthly Breakdown.

City of Norton Water Plant
Elevation: 2342 feet

2008
November: 3.68"
December: 8.58"

2009
January: 7.34"
February: 3.27"
March: 5.24"
April: 5.13"
May: 9.72"
June: 7.95"
July: 5.46"
August: 5.19"
September: 6.08"
Oct 1-Nov1: 4.68"

2009 Total: 60.06"
12-Month Total: 72.32"

A comparison between the Big Cherry Dam and Norton WP data sets reveals some interesting variations.

Much more rainfall was measured in Norton 
(5.16" more) during May-June than at Big Cherry Dam, while much more rain fell at Big Cherry Dam during July-September (7.86" more) than at Norton Water Plant. 

These differences being concentrated mostly during the rather chaotic convective season, with variations in the formation and propagation of showers and thunderstorms along the massif.

At some location, or locations, between these two data points (they are only point measurements) there was likely more total rainfall than measured in either rain gauge, as well as less, to generate a greater spread in warm season rain than suggested by just the Big Cherry and Norton points.

In general, the most steady difference can be seen during the orographic forcing season of November-April, (sometimes this includes May and October), with Big Cherry Dam consistently receiving more precipitation each month than the City of Norton under forcing. 

This despite the greater evaporative and wind induced rain gauge losses at the higher elevation Big Cherry site (i.e., the difference between Big Cherry Dam and Norton was greater than indicated by the gauges since the gauge at Big Cherry had loss of moisture due to evaporation between hand measurements and greater forced losses due 
to stronger winds blowing across its opening ).


Powell Valley of the High Knob Massif

Anyone from this area, or traveling through the region along our famous Country Music Highway 
(U.S. 23), knows that the Little Stone Mountain Gap passage in the High Knob Massif often marks 
a major weather change zone.

Amid quiet times it may only be marked by such scenes as below, which was beautifully captured in a series of pictures by Ron Flanary during early October.

Lingering Inversion - Powell Valley of High Knob Massif
Photograph by Ron Flanary - © All Rights Reserved

My good friends Elizabeth & Addison Stallard live beneath the fog layer above, within the majestic Head of Powell Valley, and have been keeping weather records since the 1970's.

These "youngsters" have documented the good, the bad, and the ugliest of weather conditions, and deserve no less than a GOLD metal for their efforts over all these many years.

During 2009, and the past 12-months, they have measured the following monthly totals with nary a missing day! 

Head of Powell Valley of High Knob Massif
Elevation: 1945 feet

2008
November: 3.30"
December: 7.50"

2009
January: 7.10"
February: 3.06"
March: 4.84"
April: 4.72"
May: 8.37"
June: 6.37"
July: 5.63"
August: 5.27"
September: 6.33"
Oct 1-Nov 1: 4.31"

2009 Total: 56.00"
12-Month Total: 66.80" 

Thanks to Elizabeth & Addison Stallard we have an insight into the local climate that simply would not exist without their exemplary records!

Measuring every day near the other end of Powell Valley, amid the great South Fork Gorge opening at the Big Stone Gap Water Plant, my friend Gary Hampton reports a little more than the Valley Head, with just over 56.00" during 2009 and nearly 68.50" in the past 12-months.

November 4, 2009
Upper Tennessee River Basin
Looking to South Fork Gorge of Powell River Basin
Majestic Morning Light In Powell Valley of HKL
Photograph by Roddy Addington - © All Rights Reserved.

Majestic morning light illuminating a cornfield at the end of the growing season was beautifully captured by Roddy Addington early on November 4.  Rugged mountain walls rising upward in the background guard the opening of South Fork Gorge of Powell River.

The high country of the Big Cherry Basin, spreading out above Powell Valley, has received more than a foot (12.00-14.00") of measurable precipitation beyond that observed amid the beautiful Valley during the past 12-months (much more when allowing for evaporation losses, of at least 3.00", and wind generated rain gauge undercatches in both rain and snow ).

Of course, that is just PRIMARY precpitation!

When factoring in FOG drip from trees and the gorgeous but very important RIME deposition upon trees, the addition of SECONDARY moisture sources across the High Knob high country has truly generated a major bonus of moisture which is FAR greater than that endured by residents living amid the rugged mountain walls of 
Powell Valley.

For STUNNING Roddy Addington photography and 
to obtain additional information about RIME please reference:


This is why the High Knob Massif is truly a water capturing wonder for this latitude in Virginia and the Appalachians.  The numbers simply do not lie and reveal a great many things which are key to the vast biodiversity and karstification of this truly incredible and ancient landscape of the HKL.

It's time we all learn!


Current Wetness Ranking Within The HKL

Consistent weather records reveal that 2009 and the past 12-months have been wet, but not nearly as moist as the wettest documented since just the late 1970s-early 1980s (a relative, minute flicker amid the vastness of time).

The wettest 12-month period on record in the 
City of Norton had more than 80.00" of total precipitation during the 1993-94 period (79.29" 
in the gauge, but with notable moisture loss during a rather harsh winter in deep snowfalls that the smaller rain gauge, used at that time, could not physically hold).

This suggests that the 1993-94 period had 8.00-10.00"+ of precipitation above what has been observed so far during the past 12-months, with MAX totals of between 90.00" to 100.00" within the High Knob Massif verses the 80.00" to 90.00" max amounts attained since November 2008.  

IF November and December of 2009 are VERY wet, this year has at least a shot at becoming the wettest locally observed during this relatively short record period (of 32-years).  Odds are against it being that WET, unless this November can pull it out, since the wetness of December 2008 will drop out of the 12-month interval after December 2009 begins.  Only time will tell.

(Note: The 32-years denoting when precipitation recording began in the Head of Powell Valley, far beneath the crest of the high country).

High Knob Massif
Upper Tennessee River Basin
Big Stony Creek of Clinch River Basin
Mountain Fork Backcountry of Big Stony Creek
Photograph by Otis Ward - © All Rights Reserved.

[My friends Otis & Nancy Ward contribute much more than beautiful pictures, as they have also measured precipitation in the Robinson Knob community of the High Knob Massif for a number of years.  The driest month observed there during the past year was February 2009, with 4.05" of precipitation.  They were among the original founders of The Clinch Coalition].


Outside The Lifting Zone 

The true significance of the High Knob Massif precipitation regime can be seen by an inspection of monthly totals from outside of its orographically forced lifting zone, where air flow trajectories are often impacted by downsloping leeward of its 
high country.

That such impacts should be felt are not surprising, given that if one sat the southwestern base of the High Knob Massif over the town of Wise you would have to drive all the way northeast to the town of Clintwood in order to reach its other side.  Just think about how many typical ridges and hills are passed along that distance!

Likewise, if the base of the mountains on the 
right side of Roddy's cornfield photograph were placed over Red Onion Mountain, along the Wise-Dickenson border, the other side would reach all the way across to the Dickenson-Buchanan border (along a W-E trajectory).

When standing at Powell Valley Overlook in 
Little Stone Mountain Gap, the distance to the other side of the great massif along a NNW-SSE trajectory to Hanging Rock Recreation Area in northeastern Scott County is analogous to traveling from Elk Garden in Russell County to Glade Spring in Washington County.

The distance between the north base of the High Knob Massif at Ramsey, in Wise County, and it's southern base at Ka, on Big Stony Creek in Scott County, is the same as traveling from downtown Lebanon in Russell County to south of the North Fork of the Holston River in Washington County.

This is not a typical Appalachian mountain, as gifted, talented, and sweet Gladys Stallard recognized many years ago in her wonderful wildflower journeys and nature writings with award winning author, columnist, and dear companion Gaynelle Malesky.

[Beloved Gaynelle S. Malesky passed in September 2003 at the age of 92 and leaves an impressive legacy of poems and columns.  Gaynelle & Gladys wrote nature columns in the Coalfield Progress newspaper for more than 30 years and were the first writers to recognize the unique size, topography, and nature of what they knew as the great High Knob Mountain mass].     

When adding in the extended landform of the 
High Knob Massif, with its rugged northwestern mountain flank reaching southwest to magnificent Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, it then becomes obvious that air flowing across a wide region is going to be impacted by the HKL and 
the remnant massif of its high country.

My friend Geneva Varner, Superintendent 
of North Fork of Pound Dam in northern Wise County, has been a diligent worker for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and dedicated 
NWS Cooperative observer for many years.

Here is a monthly breakdown of her hand measured precipitation totals during the 
past 12-months.

North Fork of Pound Dam
Elevation: 1675 feet

2008
November: 2.40"
December: 5.45"

2009
January: 5.55"
February: 1.85"
March: 4.48"
April: 3.17"
May: 5.07"
June: 6.83"
July: 5.26"
August: 4.55"
September: 6.06"
October: 3.66"

2009 Total: 46.48"
12-Month Total: 54.33"

Only the amount which fell after 8 AM on October 31 
is not included.

Although above average, monthly precipitation totals at North Fork of Pound Dam are strikingly less than observed at Big Cherry Dam of High Knob, and amid its adjacent lifting zone, via significant moisture robbing leeward of the HKL, and its remnant massif, on southerly air flow trajectories.

My friends Wayne & Genevie Riner report monthly precip totals that reflect much the same 
at their official NWS weather station (Nora 4 SSE) atop beautiful Long Ridge of Sandy Ridge in the highlands of southern Dickenson County.

Golden Maples and Yellow Poplars - October 2009
Photograph by Wayne Riner - © All Rights Reserved.

Long Ridge of Sandy Ridge - Nora 4 SSE
Elevation: 2650 feet

2008
November: 2.35"
December: 6.18"

2009
January: 5.35"
February: 2.33"
March: 4.12"
April: 3.31"
May: 5.75"
June: 8.51"
July: 3.62"
August: 3.97"
September: 4.12"
Oct 1-Nov 1: 3.27"

2009 Total: 44.35"
12-Month Total: 52.88"

Long Ridge is on the Tennessee Valley Divide, 
like the adjacent Wise Plateau, and monthly precipitation totals there are impacted by wind induced rain gauge undercatches.  However, since these are not accounted for in standard reporting, the totals above are comparable to those observed at Big Cherry Dam of High Knob, except that the Big Cherry monthly totals also have evaporative losses (as previously noted). 

Wayne & Genevie measure every day by hand 
on Long Ridge, so there should be very little evaporative loss for Nora 4 SSE.

Autumn On Long Ridge of Tennessee Valley Divide
Looking Toward Northeast End Of Pine Mountain
Photograph by Wayne Riner - © All Rights Reserved.

When standing upon the highlands of southern Dickenson County, looking across the Russell Fork Basin toward Pine Mountain and Breaks Interstate Park, as beautifully illustrated by Wayne's gorgeous autumn photography, it is rather difficult to think about moisture robbing on downsloping winds!

However, indeed, it is true that Long Ridge is within the rain and snow shadow of the High Knob Massif and its extended landform on WSW to SW air flow trajectories, with significant moisture extraction downstream of the High Knob 
high country. 

Again, the numbers do not lie with 27.57" less hand-measured precipitation on Long Ridge than at Big Cherry Dam during the past 12-months on just the RAW readings (both sites have wind induced rain gauge undercatches).

In reality, of course, when adding in the 3.00" of evaporation losses at Big Cherry Dam, the true rain gauge departure would find Big Cherry having had 30.57" more during the past 12-months.

That is a very impressive difference, given Big Cherry Dam is just 470 vertical feet higher in elevation than Nora 4 SSE.

The real cause, or literal forcing for this difference, not being directly due to the elevation of Big Cherry Dam, but rather to the atypically wide expanse of the High Knob high country and the forced lifting of air from the floors of the river valleys to above the summit level of the 4223 foot massif.

There is more MEAN lift on all air flow trajectories into the sprawling High Knob Massif versus the more narrow crested Long Ridge. 

Associated convergence due to the terrain in combination with capping orographic clouds that enhance rain and snow amounts at ground level 
are additional important factors that work to boost precipitation at Big Cherry Dam above Nora 4 SSE.

When combined with moisture extraction and downsloping lee of the High Knob high country, on moisture rich SW winds (especially), this results in less total precipitation on Long Ridge.

Tennessee Valley Divide-Pine Mountain Ring Russell Fork Basin
Photograph by Wayne Riner - © All Rights Reserved.

The highlands along the Tennessee Valley Divide, upon which Long Ridge rests, in combination with the HKL and its remnant high country massif, collectively work to increase total moisture extraction farther northeast into the lower elevations of northern Dickenson 
and Buchanan counties.

This moisture robbing impact actually extends much farther northeast into southern West Virginia on SW winds, as well as into eastern Kentucky on S, SE, and E winds.  It also has both an interesting and very important impact upon the upper Clinch River Basin, as will be noted later.

This loss of precipitation on moisture bearing southerly winds is reflected by gauge measurements, such as those made within the Haysi, Birchleaf, Sandlick, and Grundy communities.

Here is a monthly breakdown for the official NWS cooperative station at the Mountain Mission School near Grundy, within the Levisa Fork Valley of Buchanan County.

Mountain Mission School - Grundy
Elevation: 1170 feet

2008
November: 2.49"
December: 5.01"

2009
January: 4.75"
February: 1.28"
March: 3.81"
April: 2.66"
May: 8.24"
June: 3.44"
July: 5.34"
August: 3.69"
September: 2.95"
Oct 1-Nov 1: 3.48"

2009 Total: 39.64"
12-Month Total: 47.14"

The Grundy 12-month total is nearly 6.00" less than measured atop Long Ridge, and 33.31" (36.31" when factoring in the evaporative loss) less than measured at Big Cherry Dam.

The long-term implications of these moisture differences are truly vast, given that they are not only significant but are consistently significant 
over the longer term.

For example, in the entire 45-year precipitation record of Clintwood there has NEVER been a January to December period with 60.00" of total precipitation.  Since 1964 the greatest Jan-Dec totals on record were 58.78" in 2003, 58.68" in 1989, and 58.30" in 1975.  FAR below the current January-October total for Big Cherry Dam of the High Knob Massif.

Steve Mullins, Superintendent of the Clintwood Wastewater Treatment Plant, and his staff measured 59.18" on the northeast side of town during 2003.

The greatest 12-month precipitation total in Clintwood reached 61.08" during November 1988 to October 1989.  This is far less than the current yearly precipitation total within the High Knob Massif area and 20-30"+ less than maximum 
12-month totals.

Here's the Current Monthly Breakdown.

Clintwood 1 W NWS
Elevation: 1560 feet

2008
November: 2.51"
December: 5.81"

2009
January: 5.33"
February: 2.45"
March: 4.49"
April: 3.62"
May: 5.28"
June: 8.06"
July: 6.32"
August: 4.14"
September: 5.41"
Oct 1-Nov 1: 3.67"

2009 Total: 48.77"
12-Month Total: 57.09"

The current 12-month total in Clintwood is 15.23" less than measured in the City of Norton, and 23.36" less than Big Cherry Dam of High Knob (-26.36" when adding evaporative losses).

For this western Appalachian Front Range location of Clintwood, the only way that this consistency could be maintained over such a relatively long period (45-years) is by the domination, within the MEAN, of significant downsloping and moisture extraction leeward of the High Knob Landform (and Black Mountains) on moisture rich 
southerly air flow trajectories.


Regional Precipitation Point Samples

An inspection of 2009 and 12-month precipitation totals from other parts of the region reveals some rather significant variations via a few selected point samples.

2009 Total / 12-Month Total

Virginia
Richmond: 31.64" / 39.22"

Charolettesville: 32.56" / 37.79"

Roanoke: 39.09" / 43.26"

Bland: 39.70" / 45.57"

Wytheville: 41.52" / 46.63"

Richlands: 42.01" / 48.52"

Blacksburg: 42.16" / 47.54"

Lebanon: 44.40" / 52.08"

West Virginia
Martinsburg: 28.91" / 34.98"

Beckley: 38.06" / 45.22"

Bluefield: 39.27" / 44.77"

Elkins: 46.65" / 55.55"

Tennessee
Tri-Cities: 40.03" / 46.53"

Knoxville: 50.79" / 63.18"

Kentucky
Lexington: 49.04" / 57.60"

Jackson: 49.31" / 59.20"

London: 50.05" / 57.56"

A general east to west increase in both 2009 and 12-month precipitation totals is evident across the state of Virginia, with extreme variations of up to 
4 FEET of total precipitation (rain + melted snow) between wetter parts of the High Knob Massif and drier portions of central-eastern Virginia.

Martinsburg, amid the shadow of the northern West Virginia highlands, reports among the lowest 2009 and 12-month tallies with 34.98" during the past year being 45.47" less than measured at Big Cherry Lake Dam of 
the High Knob Massif (48.47" less when adding in the 3.00" evaporative loss at Big Cherry Dam).

Locations west of the Appalachian Mountains 
in Kentucky, from the rugged foothills into the bluegrass, have measured more total precipitation during 2009 and the past 12-months than most places subjected to the more direct, stronger downsloping and moisture extraction leeward of the HKL (since the best robbing of moisture for them occurs on SE air flow trajectories which are less common in the MEAN).

Clinch River Basin
Precipitation Variation

Large precipitation variations during the past 
12-months can be seen between the City of Norton (72.32") and locations within adjacent Russell and Tazewell counties, at Richlands (48.52") and Lebanon (52.08"), as well as in the Tazewell-Bluefield (44.77") area at the head of 
the Clinch River Basin. 

These large annual precipitation extremes have been well documented (since 1990) by NWS rain gauges as being common, and generate a notable and anomalous pattern that features decreasing moisture upstream, northeast of the High Knob Massif and its Landform within the ecologically diverse Clinch River Basin.

In most river basins precipitation INCREASES upstream into their headwaters.  This anomalous pattern within the Clinch River Basin, of significant decreases in annual precipitation upstream of the High Knob Massif, has played important roles (perhaps the vital key role) in establishing its vast diversity of life forms via the presence of significant climatic gradients upon which diversity naturally develops and depends.

As stated by Frank Kilgore, this could be "the missing link" in understanding the epi-center of biodiversity which has developed across the truly wondrous Clinch-Powell River watersheds of the Upper Tennessee River Basin.

Panorama Across Clinch River Valley to HKL
Photograph by Richard Kretz - © All Rights Reserved.
  
In this beautiful panorama by photographer and naturalist Richard Kretz, the High Knob Landform (HKL) appears only as a long, blue swell upon the horizon of the majestic Clinch River Valley.


Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Colors Peak In Lower Elevations of Cumberlands


Pinnacle Overlook In Cumberland Gap NHP
Photograph by Harold Jerrell - © All Rights Reserved.

From magnificent Cumberland Gap National Historical Park to Breaks Interstate Park, autumn colors have been on beauitful display during the past week across lower elevations of the Cumberlands ( at elevations below 2000 feet ).

[ Note in Harold's photograph above, that a morning inversion with cool, calm air amid the Middlesboro Astrobleme Basin, has generated a layer of fog beneath an array of orographic wave clouds which have formed within much stronger air currents rushing across the Cumberland and Log mountains ].

Fog was also a key feature in Breaks Interstate Park this past weekend, as moist, cooling air drained downstream from John Flannagan Lake through the majestic, rugged depths of Breaks Gorge.

"The Towers" Beneath Fog-Capped Rims of Breaks Gorge
Photograph by Roddy Addington - © All Rights Reserved.

Visitors to Breaks Interstate Park may not think of it as being within the lower elevations, but most of the Park actually sits below 2000 feet.  The top of the jagged Towers, visible in Roddy's photograph above, is nearly 500 vertical feet lower in elevation than downtown portions of the city of Norton.  Yes, that is not often thought about!

The highest peak visible from the Park's many dazzling overlooks, is the massive Skegg Wall which caps Pine Mountain.  The upper portion of it stands, although hard to believe, not much above the water level of Bark Camp Lake in the High Knob Massif.

A hike up to Skegg Knob, adjacent to Skegg Gap and the massive Skegg Wall, is a difficult but rewarding experience.  On a clear day, as I have been humbled to observe, it's possible to see the High Knob highcountry capping the horizon upon looking across the upward sloping crest of the massive Skegg Wall.  An incredible site!

[ An old gravel quarry adjacent to Skegg Wall, in Pike County, Ky., has been GREATLY expanded in size during recent years, with the extensive quarrying of Greenbrier Limestone outcrops ].

Colorful Breaks Interstate Park - October 25, 2009
Photograph by Roddy Addington - © All Rights Reserved.

That Breaks Interstate Park sits amid lower elevations becomes obvious, when considering it contains the single water-level outlet for the 500+ square mile Russell Fork Basin.

It is here that water declared war upon rock!

It is here that a Mastercraftsman began the work of carving out the jagged, cliff lined, rock filled depths of Breaks Gorge from the northeastern end of Pine Mountain.

It is here that rock surrendered to water, and great palisade walls rose high above the turbulent, grinding, whitewater that still carves the Gorge today.

Kayakers Amid The Class IV-V+ Breaks Gorge
  Photograph by Roddy Addington - © All Rights Reserved.

By the time whitewater exits Elkhorn City, Ky., the Russell Fork River has dropped to 749 feet above sea level, 647 vertical feet lower than the summer pool elevation of John Flannagan Lake and 3474 vertical feet lower than the peak of the High Knob Massif.

The drop along the Russell Fork becomes significant through Breaks Gorge, where 140 feet of vertical drop per mile is average ( with a max gradient of up to 190 feet per mile ). 

This generates an American Whitewater rated Class IV-V+ run, which has become known as    "The Beast of the East."

The most dangerous commerically rafted river in the eastern United States.

Although upper reaches of Cumberland Gap National Historical Park ( NHP ) contain a good amount of elevated high terrain amid its wilderness backcountry, within the Martins Fork and Shillalah Creek basins, from Hensley Flats along Bailes Meadows to White Rocks, it is also surrounded by extensive lower terrain.

The Original Historic Cumberland Gap - Oct 26, 2009
Photograph by Harold Jerrell - © All Rights Reserved.

The original Cumberland Gap, as captured by Harold Jerrell, sits just over 1600 feet above sea level, nearly 500 feet higher than the 1138 foot benchmark in downtown Middlesboro, Kentucky.

Cumberland Gap Tunnel - Modern Passage - Oct 26, 2009
Photograph by Harold Jerrell - © All Rights Reserved.

Extensive efforts have been made to restore the "historic" Cumberland Gap to its former state, with building of the new Tunnels being a rather impressive feature of construction.

However, these are not even close to the awesome majesty which remains to impress those who visit great Cumberland Gap NHP.

Panorama of Middlesboro Basin At Night - October 2009
Photograph by Harold Jerrell - © All Rights Reserved. 

These large elevation variations within the Cumberland Mountains, generate multi-peak periods each autumn, as this website is illustrating ( with a global warming tendency toward later mean peaks being a dominant trend observed during the past 10-20 years ).  

During the 2009 autumn season, early color changes could be seen amid upper elevations of the High Knob Massif during mid-late September, with climax occurring during the October 10-17 period above 2700 feet ( locally before October 10 on some high, wind swept crests ).  A fairly "normal" season in terms of rate of color changes in the highcountry.

The week of October 18-24 featured peak conditions across lower and middle elevations,     with some color lingering this week across lower elevations, and within protected coves and hollows of the mountains.

And as you can see by the following pictures from photographers Harold Jerrell and Roddy Addington, there is MUCH color that remains which is not just "in the trees."

Aster Species In Morning Dew
Photograph by Harold Jerrell - © All Rights Reserved.

Bearded Tooth Mushroom ( Hericium spp. )
Photograph by Roddy Addington - © All Rights Reserved.

In general, and there are ALWAYS exceptions, colorations during 2009 seemed to be best across middle to upper elevations, with simply spectacular conditions observed within the High Knob Massif and along higher reaches of the mountain flanks of its extended landform.

Reference the following to view the glorious color climax:  http://www.highknoblandform.com/2009/10/high-knob-massif-reaches-glorious-color.html

[ The Kentucky ColorFall 2009 connection reports that this is the peak week across most of the foothills of the east, with lesser 45-60 percent change reported from around Dale Hollow Lake west toward Pennyrile Forest in western Kentucky ].



A Bit Of Geology

Prior to NASA satellites, USGS mapping, and Google, which have revolutionized the world, some use to think that Cumberland Mountain and Pine Mountain were one and the same, with Breaks Interstate Park at one end and Cumberland Gap NHP at the other.

However, that was certainly never the case! 

Cumberland Mountain is part of the extended northwestern flank of the High Knob Landform ( HKL ), and is physically separated from Pine Mountain by some miles.  Both the HKL and Pine Mountain are part of the Cumberland Mountain Group.

Pine Mountain marks the northwestern-most mountain ridge of the Cumberland Mountains, and of the southern Appalachians.

The HKL and Pine Mountain are both part of the great Cumberland Mountain Overthrust Block, with the northwestern mountain flank of the HKL being a geological mirror image of Pine Mountain.  This can likely be illustrated best by looking at a cross-section, taken across the Middlesboro Basin, which shows how major rock stratas are arranged beneath the surface.

Geological Cross-Section Across Middlesboro Basin
Courtesy of Kentucky Society of Professional Geologists

Rock layers on Cumberland Mountain dip northwest toward Pine Mountain, while those on Pine Mountain dip southeastward toward the rugged Cumberland Mountain arm of the HKL.

This forms a broadly concave basin, called the Middlesboro Basin, which actually extends far beyond Middlesboro itself along the entire length of the great Cumberland Mountain Overthrust Block ( into northern Wise & Dickenson counties ).

Note also how rock layers beneath the Powell Valley Anticline, the geological framework of the great High Knob Landform ( HKL ), are all arched in the cross-section above ( from Cumberland Mountain southeast ).

If the other side of this cross-section was completed and visible, its pre-erosional state would form a great mound of rock stratas reaching from rugged Cumberland Mountain and Poor Valley Ridge southeast to Wallen Ridge, Powell Mountain, and lovely Newman Ridge. 

It would show a consolidated mountain spanning the entire breath of today's Powell River Valley, such that prior to massive erosion most of Lee County, and adjoining counties along the winding Powell River, were once covered by a great mass of mountain.

The High Knob Landform ( HKL ), whose heart was eventually breached, or opened, to reveal the wondrous karst valleys and rolling landscape so beloved today.

The lofty backbone of Cumberland Gap NHP offers an ideal view of this great landscape, as illustrated by Harold Jerrell's gorgeous photograph below which looks across southern Lee County.

Looking Across the Opened HKL from Pinnacle Overlook
Photograph by Harold Jerrell - © All Rights Reserved.

[ The Pinnacle Overlook stands at about the same elevation as downtown Wise, with increases in elevation toward the northeast along the spine of Cumberland Gap NHP.  A substantial amount of highcountry exists within the confluence of Cumberland-Brush mountains, as the northwestern flank of the HKL develops a more complex geologic structure across central-northeastern sections of the National Park.

This will be highlighted in more detail within a later writing, so stay tuned to my website ].

In Summary...Reference Endemics Characteristics In My Main HKL Section for more details and graphics ):

http://www.highknoblandform.com/2009/09/high-knob-landform.html

The Cumberland ( Brush )-Stone-Little Stone Mountain crestlines mark the northwestern flank of the HKL, while Powell Mountain and Newman Ridge stand as what remains of its highly eroded southeastern flank ( southwest of the North Fork of Clinch River Gap, or The Divide, which separates the remnant massif of High Knob from the Wallen Creek Basin nestled amid Powell Mountain-Wallen Ridge ).

The High Knob Massif is the only large expanse of highcountry remaining today of this once enormous mass of mountain, that dominated the western front range of the southern Appalachians.

The complete HKL then consists of a remnant highcountry mass ( the High Knob Massif ), a dominant and elongated northwestern mountain flank, a prominent but more highly eroded southeastern flank, and a great calcareous heart of rolling karst valleys lying between these ruggedly majestic mountains.

This is illustrated by the high resolution NASA visible image below, where the HKL has been outlined in RED. 

The entire landform is visible, except for the very southwestern end, which runs back northwest along the Jacksboro Cross-fault to rejoin the southeastern & northwestern flanks ( near I-75 ) just southwest of Norris Lake in northern Tennessee ( amid union of the Clinch-Powell rivers ).

NASA Visible Satellite Image - January 11, 2004
RED Area Outlines The High Knob Landform

[ The mountain flanks being continuous with the High Knob Massif of today, and the breaching of the great heart of this landform ( the geologic Powell Valley Anticline ) occuring by headward erosion over time, so that today the apex of this process is marked by the V-shaped head of Powell Valley in Wise County, Virginia.

The name for this website is therefore, rightfully, that of The High Knob Landform after the remnant massif of highcountry to which it remains continuous today.

Reference this link for a more detailed explaination of The Name & Purpose Of This Website:

http://www.highknoblandform.com/2010/03/march-2010-second-week-spring-prelude.html  ].